Leftover Mitts

So a little while ago the Yarn Harlot posted a lovely pattern for a bulky-weight cabled hat, which she called the Unoriginal Hat.

I saw it and thought, I bet that Rowan Big Wool that's been languishing in my stash for a year now would work!

I knitted up the hat on the flight to Weatherwood last weekend (yes, it's that fast of a pattern). But it only used one skein of Big Wool, and I had two. Hence, the armwarmers in the picture above, and featured in the picture below.

They're as easy to knit as the hat, and use the same yarn, same needles, same gauge, even the same amount of yarn. (I had 4 yards left from the first skein after my hat. The mitts used all but 7 yards of the second skein.)

Pattern and notes under the jump.

So, bulky-weight fingerless mittens, to match a hat that fits snugly, and uses the snug fit to display its cables. I wanted a cable, but only one, and I wanted them to fit closely. After some false starts, it became clear that I needed to make a gusset for the thumb, and to add a little arm shaping. I synced the shaping with the cabling to reduce the amount of thought required of the knitter, and ended up here:

In real life I'll wear these over glove liners, or very thin gloves.

Pattern: Leftover Mitts, by Emma Jane Maple

Yarn: 1 ball Rowan Big Wool (100g), or other bulky wool (label says 2 st/in on size 17 needles)

Needles: Size 11 DPNs, or size to get 3 st/in from yarn

Size: for an adult woman's M/L hand.

Notes

1. "in pattern" means knit all knits, purl all purls. Cast-on and increased stitches count as knits.
2. kLL is the "knit left loop" increase, and kRL is the "knit right loop" increase. See http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/increases.
3. "FC" means to cable front cross 2 knit stitches over 2 knit stitches.
4. "***" means *k2, p1* through end of round.
5. The only difference between the right and left mitts is that the cable and the thumb shaping are in the reverse order.
6. I used 4 DPNs (5th as cable needle!) and started with 11 stitches on needle 1, 6 on needle 2, and 6 on needle 3. That keeps all the action on needle 1 for the whole pattern, except for the k2tog at the row 9/10 juncture, right armwarmer, which straddles a gap. Leave the resulting stitch on needle 3, and at the beginning of round 11 cast all 6 stitches onto needle 1.

Left armwarmer

Cast on 23 stitches. Join in the round.

Round 1 (set-up): k4, p1, ***.

Rounds 2-6: in pattern.

Round 7: FC, p1, ***.

Rounds 8-9: in pattern.

Round 10: k4, p1, k2, k2tog, ssk, ***. (21 stitches.)

Round 11: k4, p1, k2, p1, cast on 6 stitches, p1, ***.  (27 stitches.)

Rounds 12-14: in pattern.

Round 15: FC, p1, k2, p1, ssk, k2, k2tog, p1, ***. (25 stitches.)

Rounds 16-18: in pattern.

Round 19: k4, p1, k2, p1, ssk, k2tog, p1, ***. (23 stitches.)
         
Rounds 20-22: in pattern.

Round 23: FC, p1, k2, p1, k1, kLL, kRL, k1, p1, ***. (25 stitches.)

Rounds 24-30: in pattern.

Round 31: FC, p1, k2, p1, k1, kLL, k2, kRL, k1, p1, ***. (27 stitches.)

Rounds 32-38: in pattern.
             
Bind off; not too tight, but not too loose, either.

Right armwarmer

Cast on 23 stitches. Join in the round.

Round 1 (set-up): k2, p1, k2, p1, k4, p1, ***.

Rounds 2-6: in pattern.

Round 7: k2, p1, k2, p1, FC, p1, ***.

Rounds 8-9: in pattern. Except: at end of round 9, k together the first stitch of round 10 and the last stitch of round 9. Treat that decrease as the last stitch in round 9. 

Round 10: ssk, k2, p1, k4, p1, ***. (21 stitches.)

Round 11: Cast on 6 stitches, p1, k2, p1, k4, p1, ***.  (27 stitches.)

Rounds 12-14: in pattern.

Round 15: ssk, k2, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, FC, p1,  ***. (25 stitches.)

Rounds 16-18: in pattern.

Round 19: ssk, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, k4, p1,  ***. (23 stitches.)
         
Rounds 20-22: in pattern.

Round 23:  k1, kLL, kRL, k1, p1,  k2, p1, FC, p1, ***. (25 stitches.)

Rounds 24-30: in pattern.

Round 31: k1, kLL, k2, kRL, k1, p1, k2, p1, FC, p1,  ***. (27 stitches.)

Rounds 32-38: in pattern.
             
Bind off; not too tight, but not too loose, either.

But I want them bigger/smaller. Then cast on 26/20 stitches at the beginning, maybe do a couple more/fewer rows before the first cable cross, maybe do 8/6 rows between crosses instead of 7.

Could they be real mitttens? Um, sure, and I think they'd be nice ones. Make a sock toe that goes up to 23 stitches and starts you off in a 2/1 rib with a 2/2 cable in the middle of one side. Then follow the pattern above, except: for the thumb opening, shift two stitches to waste yarn, instead of decreasing. Provisionally cast on the 6 stitches in the next row. Only work up to Row 30 (to keep within the one-skein yarn requirement), and bind off. Then go back and make your favorite thumb on the stitches left hanging. (If you really do this, please tell me and I'll link.)

But I hate working in bulky yarn! Me too. But I really wanted (a) the hat, which is snug and warm and wonderful to wear, and (b) to get the yarn out of my life. What was I going to do with the one ball of Big Wool left after I made the hat?

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wow.. very nicely done and looks like it just in time for the holidays. I have some bulky that I am gonna have to try this, thanks

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